Patration
Part photo-blog, part my adventures abroad, part random ponderings.
So it’s the holiday season in the USA right now and there have been quite a few holidays here in Morocco that I have had the chance to celebrate since my arrival. I’ll preface my account of holidays in Morocco by pointing out that there are both National Holidays and then Muslim holidays that are also celebrated here. For my sake, I will only cover the holidays I have experienced so far, and I will recap on the remaining holidays in a later post, but will list all of the holidays for everyone’s benefit.
Ramadan - Aug 11th-Sept 9th, 2010
To start with, I arrived in Morocco during Ramadan, the Muslim holiday celebrated during the 9th month of the Islamic calendar and is meant to teach patience and humility. During this month, Muslims fast during day (dawn until dusk) and break each fast in the evening, after the Maghrib(sunset) prayer, or the 4th call to prayer. This fast is usually broken with Iftar, which consists of special sweets and cookies, harira (delicious Moroccan soup) and dates. Throughout Ramadan Muslims pray, read the Koran, Many families gather together for Iftar. The end of Ramadan is marked by Eid al-Fitr, also known as the lesser Eid.
Lesser Eid/Eid Sghir - Sept 10th, 2010/Shawwaal 1
The three day holiday celebrating the end of Ramadan takes place on the first three days of the Islamic month, Shawwaal. People greet each other with ‘Eid Mubrak” (Blessed Eid) and eat a small, sweet breakfast to signify that they are not fasting. There is also an eid prayer performed and gathering of family for meals, and children often receive small gifts.
Green March/Eid Al Masssira Al Khadra - Nov 6th
This holiday celebrates the Green March, a strategic mass demonstration in Tarfaya on Nov 6th, Nov 1975 that was organized by the Moroccan government to force Spain to relinquish their claim to the disputed Western Sahara. The Western Sahara continues to be a point of contest today, but that is a story for another time. The color green is meant to symbolize Islam. Numerous flags and banners of the Moroccan flags are hung and children often make related crafts in school.
The Greater Eid/Eid Kbir - Nov 16th, 2010/Dhu al-Hjjah 10
Celebration of Abraham’s willingness to sacrifice his son as an act of obedience to God and God’s grace in giving him a lamb to sacrifice in his son’s place. To commemorate the act, lambs are traditionally slaughtered and eaten by families who gather on this day. The lamb is separated in to three shares, one for the family, one for relatives, friends, and neighbors, and the final third for the poor. The is also a specific prayer for this Eid. I wasn’t with my home stay family for this holiday, as I was traveling in Turkey, which is another story for another time.
Independence Day/Eid Al Istiqulal - Nov 18th
Celebrates Morocco gaining it’s independence from France in 1956.
Fatih Muharram - Dec 7th, 2010/Muharram 1
First day of the first month of the Islamic lunar calendar, Muharram. Public workers receive the day off, as do students. Family usually gathers together for a large meal.
Ashura - Dec 16th, 2010/Muharram 10
Ashura marks the death of Husayn ibn Ali, the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH). While this holiday is primarily observed by Shia Muslims, Sunni Muslims (Morocco has a Sunni majority) also observe this holiday, but their observations can be fairly different. On Ashura in Morocco, firecrackers are traditionally lit and some people have bonfires, children traditionally receive small gifts.
New Year’s Day - Jan 1st
Proclamation of Independence - Jan 11th
Mawlid (“Birth of Prophet Muhammad”) - Feb 26th (Sunni), 2010/Rabi’ al-Awwal 12
Labor Day - May 1st
Enthronement - Jul 30th
Oued Ed-Dahab Day - Aug 14th
Revolution of the King and the People - Aug 20th
Youth Day - Aug 21st
So I very recently (aka 15mins ago) realized that I have blogged about a lot of the events I’ve experienced in Morocco, but I have failed to say anything about my daily routine. And while many of us wish there would be something new and exciting going on everyday, but there is usually a lot average repetition that falls between adventures. Although, that is not to say that every day isn’t an adventure in its own way. As much as I like the thrill of somewhere or something new, I will always appreciate simple days and the simple pleasures they bring. (Like hearing an old favorite song and having all the lyrics come rushing back.) So, for your reading pleasure, I present, a day in my life, Moroccan version. Well, what would studying abroad be without classes? Just abroad. Arabic is at 8:30am M/W/F, so that means that I’m up sometime between 7-7:30am if Abdulhaq is picking up myself and my roommate and taking us, along w/ his home stay student, from our home stays in Temara to our school in Rabat (which is about a 30 min drive as long as we don’t hit traffic). On days when he works, I get up by 7am and catch a bus to school, which takes about an hour. On Tuesdays and Thursdays, I don’t have class until 10:30am, depending on the day I get a ride at 8am to school or catch a bus later on. If I go early on I go for coffee in one of the cafes near the school and work on homework or blog. But back to my morning at home. I run through my morning routine, if I take a shower I’m usually kindly scolded for having wet hair (Moroccans believe you will get a cold if you have wet hair all day, they generally shower in the evenings) or not having enough warm clothes on, or anything that might mean I won’t remain warm and dry all day. After getting dressed etc, I say “sabbah khr” (good morning) to everyone and go into the kitchen for breakfast. There is always our regular homemade flat bread (khobz in Arabic) rounds sitting out w/ jam, margarine and cheese, then there is usually a variety of other bready things that might pop up milwi or beghrir (1000 hole pancakes that are eaten w/ a honey/butter mixture poured on top) to name a couple. Of course, there is always sweet green tea sitting in a teapot set out w/ lots of glasses. Since there are so many people who live at my home stay (9 adults, 5 kids, myself and my roomie, plus whoever is staying over) the food is set out for breakfast and we all sit down when we can. I’m usually in a hurry in the morning, so I immediately pour some tea so it can cool down while I eat my bread w/ cheese, then gulp down my still almost too hot tea before running out the door. After classes, there is usually a group of the students that goes for coffee or lunch depending on the time. I usually go to the gym I joined, sometimes w/ a couple of the other girls, and workout for an hour before grabbing a bite to eat. Our most frequented place to grab a bite is California, and I think they’ve learned most of our orders. After lunch it’s either back to class, hang out at a cafe, or back home. Back home for me is usually another hour long bus ride. The buses are actually pretty adventurous, you never know what condition the bus will be in or how many people will be on the bus you want to take. Once I’m home, I great everyone that is in the living room and kitchen w/ a “salam, la bas, etc” (Morocco greetings can be quite lengthy, but it is usually dependent on how long it’s been since you’ve seen each other, more on that later) and a kiss on each cheek (always for women, only for male family members or close friends, and a handshake for any other males). I am then told to go into the kitchen and “kol” (eat). Upon my arrival in the kitchen Hafida (who is always in the kitchen cooking) heats up whatever the family had for lunch since they usually eat before I get home. After lunch/dinner I’ve developed a habit of eating 2-3 tangerines, they’re delicious. After some homework/whatever, the family has tea in the big living room along w/ some more bread around 7. Occasionally we have harira (delicious Moroccan soup) or some other kind of light meal around 8-9pm. At either of these meals I chill w/ the fam for a bit (which is usually snuggle up w/ the ladies of the household since its been cold lately), which is my most relaxing, peaceful part of my day, chat a little, watch Moroccan soap operas or do some homework before going to my room for the night. As boring as I might have made that seem, it really doesn’t begin to describe the actual events of my days here. Instead, it is merely the regular occurrences upon which my days are framed.
Departing from the group we ran around the bus station trying to figure out what bus to take at what time, the end result of which was 6 of us crammed into a grand taxi (they can take you between towns) on our way to Ourzazate to catch a bus at 6am in the morning. After driving for 4 hrs our cab driver stopped us for the the night in a very small town just outside of Ourzazate. I should take a moment to define our driving situation. 6 Americans stuffed into a taxi w/ ipod speakers all singing along while our driver speeds around the corners of a narrow, winding, mountain road.We also went through a phase of saying, in unison, “snoo ahgi” every time we were about to go around a blind corner, which was a frequent occurrence.
Anywho, we survived just fine. At the hotel we manage to convince them to give us a triple room for the 6 of us. After getting our bags inside, we decided that rather than drawing straws for the floor shoving the 2 single and the double bed together to make a single giant bed for 6. This accomplished we walked off down the town’s single dirt road and found a small hanoot (small grocers) just as they were closing. Back in our room we feasted on Pringle’s (so expensive here), random packaged pastries, chocolate and a can of tuna for me. (No it was not cat food, it was actually pretty good, but yes eating it out of the can kinda overly reminded me of cat food.) 4:30am finds us groggy but getting a move on (after a mattress turning and waking up out driver who stayed down the hall), bundled up against the cold we all piled back in the taxi to Ourzazate.
Once we got to the Ourzazate bus station we found out that the bus had left at 5am. Not to be deterred and w/ our valiant taxi driver at the wheel, and for another 1000DH (we had already paid 600DH), we were back on the road. The sun was up yet and it was absolutely beautiful rising from behind the palms and old buildings letting its rays hit the snow covered peaks of the mountains behind us, lighting up the rocky desert as we drove through.
Once in Rissani, we called our guide and he gave our driver directions to where he was (aka in the desert) in Merzouga. Hot and dusty, we stayed at this family’s house for lunch before leaving for the hotel our camel trek would take us from into the desert.
I hope I’m not killing any dreams here, but camels are one of the most uncomfortable modes of transportation. Ever. I do not recommend them. Additionally, dunes make it worse. Downhill = pain.
We’ll now return to our regular “there-are-no-downsides-to-traveling-in-Africa” program.
So despite some discomfort, the entire experience was extremely scenic and pretty much exactly what you’d expect from people making their living acting out their cultural traditions for tourists. Our guide, barefoot and decked out in turban and blue robes, lead our string of camels up and down the smaller dunes for about an hour before we stopped by our quaint Amazigh (read pc form of Berber) camp. Our group immediately bounded up (for the first few meters at least) the nearest large and steep dune so we could watched sunset. I don’t think I can adequately describe how beautiful it was to watch the sunset. The dunes are impressive and orange/red, Erg Chebbi (a huge wind formed dune) was to our left and slightly behind us, another large dune was to our left and in between, far into the horizon, stretched a golden sea of still cresting waves.
Sitting on top of the dune I felt so small watching the shadows shift, grow long and the sand turn red as the stars slowly crept into the dark edges of the sky, the sun sliding down into oblivion.
After the sun had set completely, we retreated to our camp, jumping and sliding down the dune side to pick out constellations and have a mediocre but Moroccan meal. We then sat next to the fire with a few others from another campsite and our guides, who did their part to entertain us tourists with songs.
Before long however, in the deep blue framed by the black silhouettes of two dunes we watched the near full moon rise into the sky and the shadows emerged to mirror those of day. The fire died at last and the outlines of camels and palms settled for the night, so we set out again for the top of the dune to stargaze. Five of us squeezed together under a blanket and did our best to stay awake until the cold drove us down into our tents.
“I know nothing with any certainty, but the sight of stars makes me dream.” -Van Gogh (written by Ari dahling on the pages of my journal that now contains my entry on my night in the Sahara)
Dawn came all too soon, as us lazy late waking Americans finally emerged from our tents to clamber back onto our camels as the first rays of the sun licked the peaks of the highest dunes. Another hour and we were watching the sun bathe Erg Chebbi in its light, still half frozen from our night gladly letting the sun warm our bones as well. Once we returned to the hotel, we were thrilled to find breakfast and the promise of showers. Only for the dream to be crushed as our bus had arrived all too soon to take us back to Rissani. Our “bus” turned out to be a windowed van with a few extra rows of bench seats, unbolted, with a few goats in the foot of space in the back. Packed in this contraption we bounded through the desert back to the road and Rissani.
Marrakech. A lot of ppl love Marrakech, its big its bustling, things are happening, there’s the huge medina, and tons of nightlife. There are also tons of tourists and ppl who are going to treat you as a tourist. So I have mixed feelings about Marrakech, frankly it was a fun few days, but I’m glad I don’t live there. Its not my kind of scene. However, I did have a wonderful time while I was there. The best thing about traveling and having so much time to do so is that you have so much time to explore.
After sleeping for most of the ride from Rabat to Marrakech, aside from a brief restroom/playground break (SWINGS! and an awesome slide and merry-go-round of death), we all woke up when we had neared the outskirts of Marrakech. As we were passing by a half dead, somewhat sparse palmery our Prof pointed out that the oasis was suffering from two threats, a disease effecting the palms and people either poisoning their roots or cutting out their hearts.
“they tear up trees to plant concrete”
That night we made it out to explore the medina. The huge squared absolutely pack with people, it was already dark but the lights of the food court beamed brightly and in the crowded circles of people, lamps burned with just enough light to to make out the faces of the story tellers, dancers and musicians. In no time we found a man peddling his pet monkey for pictures and we were all game and only somewhat surprised by the charge of 20DH/person (a number that had not been given when we asked prior to taking pictures and that would buy you a decent lunch).
Trying to find a bit to eat, we jumped into the flood of light that was the food court only to be immediately bombarded with calls of “fish and chips” and “hey spice girls”, but as soon as our backs were turned, we would be heckled, rude comments throw like rotten fruits at us “bloody Americans”. Delving deeper into the medina, we obtained some tasty street meats for 7 DH a sandwich and dove deeper. Eventually, we walked past a tiny shop where goods and hookah smoke pouring forth into the street. Curious, we went inside a struck up a conversation with the owner, within 5 mins we all (6 in all) had a chair of sorts and tea was poured. A good conversation and a couple of hours later we were trying to find our way out of the dark, empty maze of the medina. It gave off a rather eerie feeling, being that the place was usually so full of people, light and noise; but a few stops for directions later and we hailed a cab back to our hotel.
The next morning we went back to the English Teacher School that we had watched a film at the previous afternoon and continued our discussion on woman’s rights. Following this we went on a whirlwind tour of the Medina, a whirlwind tour that took roughly 4 hours. We were whisked along from one impressive building to the next, moving quickly through the streets to arrive in the wool dyers guild. After a quick demonstration of the different ingredients the used to make the dyes, we found our heads expertly wrapped in Amazigh (read Berber) fashion in brilliantly died scarves. Moving onwards we passed the tinsmiths and leather guild areas as well, before coming to an old Koranic school that we toured.
After the best street food I’ve had to date, we were off to the ____ to watch a film on prostitution “Al Mansiyoun”, which was beautifully done and very intense. Afterwards, we were whisked off to our gender Professor’s, Prof Zizi, painting exhibit. After looking at all her works, which were marvelous and covered a range of subjects (her travels, Africa and women in Morocco). Exhausted, we bused back to our hotel. Another long day called for one thing and one thing only, a night in and ice creams sundaes. Jake, a fellow student, and I scrounged the supermarket (located under our hotel, convenience) and ended up with almonds, snickers bars, bananas and a tub of ice cream. The only thing we lacked was the self will to spend the equivalent of $8 on a can of whipped cream. Back in our hotel room, after I had dug up the spoon that had smuggled itself away in my bag to Morocco (thanks to packing silverware to work), soon we had a tub of ice cream sundae goodness and the only English channel playing Mission Impossible 2. A successful night.
The next day we made our way to the Ourika Valley to have a discussion on local politics and visit one of the mountain villages. We stopped to light candles at the shrine of the tzaddik Rabbi Shlomo ben Hensh (a Jewish staint). His shrine is watched over by the last Ammazigh Jew in the area. It is to him that we make the donation for the candles we light and palce in the small alcove at the head of the tomb. After we have finished, he recites a prayer meant to bless us with happy marriages and lots of children.
Once we were up in the mountains, it was so beautiful and silent. We had lunch at a ritzy bed and breakfast/hotel place and it was so peaceful. If I had to pick a place to spend the rest of my life, it would be in the top 3. After lunch we went on a short hike up to the village above the hotel, it was gorgeous.
The next day we made our way to Essaouira which was the seaside version of Chefcaouen, I just wish they were smack-dab next to one another, it would be perfect. The best of both worlds. The best part of Essaouira was the sand at the beach. I have never felt softer sand than it. It was soothing just walking along the beach. We spent the evening wandering around the souqs and grabbing a bit to eat to go. After walking back to the hotel along the shore, I took advantage of the huge tub in my room. It should be noted that shampoo works well as a substitute for bubble bath and can make your skin surprisingly soft.
After a truly wonderous bubble bath, which would be my last shower/bath for the rest of the week, we went on a tour of the city and by lunch the group was back on the road back to Marrakech. After much debate, 6 of us (Gordie, Nabila, Cat, Etan, Sarah and myself) decided that a Sahara adventure would be just the thing to do with our break.
This weekend our group set out for Chefchaouen, which was beyond gorgeous. The city is nestled into the Rif mountains which rise up behind it, the white and blue buildings of the old medina spilling down the mountains’ slopes into the newer structures below. The city looks out over the dips and crests of the surrounding hills, speckled with dwellings.
Upon arrival we checked into a gorgeous riad in the middle of the old medina. After clambering around, we all made it up to the terrace which provided a view of the entire city spilling out below and Rif mountains rising majestically behind the riad.
We then had some time to explore and grab lunch. The cafe’s all had people hired to grab tourists looking for a place to eat and most were quite insistent. With all the pressure, a chunk of our group broke off to seek out a better idea of our prospects. During which we came across a wonderful little stall selling almonds, peanuts and chickpeas. Daunted by my choices, I went with nature’s choice and went with the yellow chickpeas which were swarming with bees. Delicious.
After our bite to eat, we went on a guided tour of the city which culminated in a short hike to a mosque on a nearby hill above the city, which once again provided an amazing view.
In the evening, I wandered about with my roommate and fellow CIEE blogger Nabila, who had run into an acquaintance from Tangiers, Vincent. Having been in Chefcaouen showed us where to grab some yummy beef kebabs and then hung out in the main square with us while we chatted with other travelers.
On our second day, we began with a Moroccan breakfast on the terrace before heading to Ceuta, a Spanish enclave, for the afternoon. The boarder between Spain and Morocco was bleak, yet the transformation once reaching the other side was intense. There was a definite Moroccan presence in Ceuta, but it was also very European at the same time. Nearly everything was closed however because Ceuta was on Spain time, so even though it was 4pm in Morocco, it was 6pm in Ceuta. I suppose it only shows how arbitrary time is. So we milled around, looked at the architecture the very Spanish buildings and after a bit found a group of people playing Pétanque which was surprisingly really fun to watch. The weather started to get dreary at this point, so we retreated back to Chefchaouen.
By the time we returned it was pouring out, so we went to the Aladdin restaurant (over the top decorated in the Arabian castle theme, but very enjoyable) where we finished the night with hot bowls of vegetable soup, fresh bread and a warm fire to dry our toes.
Fun facts about Morocco:
still trying to decide which setup I like better
Last night I attended a Moroccan engagement party/wedding. It’s difficult to say what the event was because the couple is considered married by law and Islam, but not by their family. Traditional Moroccan weddings are three days long: the first day is when the bride has henna done on her hands and feet, the second day is the religious day where they go through religious ceremony with singing and dancing, and the third, and final, day is a big party that usually starts around 9pm and goes until 7am. So I basically witnessed the condensed version of a full wedding. Since the bride’s parents are leaving for 20 days for the hodge (the pilgrimage to Mecca) and they wanted their daughter to be able, basically, to date her fiancé.
It’s impossible to describe the kaftans (traditional Moroccan dress) that the women were wearing. They come in every fabric/color/pattern imaginable and a variety of styles from simple to traditional to modern to intricate. The women sat at tables in one section and the men in another section and the bride sat on raised cushion in the middle of a Moroccan couches in full view of everyone. The bride first entered in a beautiful deep green intricate dress complete with veil. The bride sat down and her attendants arranged her dress for her while a massive amount of incense burned, their fragrance and smoke filling the rooms. Then the attendants started hennaing her hands and feet while a traditional band began to play. Once this started, fresh squeezed juices were passed around along with the most delicious cake/pastries I’ve ever had. Amazing.
After this the bride had her first costume change into a very ornate white wedding dress, the groom and her immediate family paraded down the street baring gifts and flower arrangements. All the women went out into the street before this and started singing and doing this shrill call thing (it’s hard to explain, but the women do a shrill yell while moving their tongues back and forth rapidly) while the groom progressed up the street in his traditional dress; the djellaba (a men’s kaftan basically, but a little bit different). Once he joined the bride, they sat together while guests took photos with the couple; this took a minimum of three hours. During this time the guest were all given a glass of creamy milk and a date candy (which had been brought by the groom) per tradition.
After a final costume change, where the bride came out dressed in a red satin kaftan and the groom in a western style suit, out came the couscous. Each table was given a huge bowl of couscous with large lamb steaks on top, covered w/ caramelized onion and raisins. This was the “appetizer”, if you will, before the main course of chicken covered in lemon, olives and spices (4 whole chickens to a table, roughly 10 people/table). For dessert each table received a tray brimming with fresh fruits. (I was in a complete food coma by this point.) Everyone soon settled down to tea and special Moroccan cookies before the real party started.
Once tea had finished, the second band, that played traditional Moroccan music along with classic Middle Eastern and Egyptian tunes, began to play and people began to dance. The men and women danced in separate circles, with the teenage boys being the ones that had the most freedom to choose between the two groups. This dancing lasted until 3am. The Americans barely made it to 2:45am (and we all took naps before then!). All in all, a wonderful, beautiful, delicious, fun-filled, and educational night.
